Day 3: Italiano Camp to Paine Grande Camp
Italiano Camp is at the base of the French Valley (Valle Frances), which made the hike up the valley our main objective for our third day in Torres del Paine. Unfortunately, it being the very first day of summer meant that weather conditions were not great further up the mountain and the majority of of the trail was closed to hikers. We were able to go about a third of the way up, which was stunning and gave us a good idea of what was up there, but this was one of the few times on our trip where the weather notably affected our route. I was not disappointed with the portion of the trail that we were able to do, as it yielded the opportunity to hike at a slow pace and work on different elements of photography.
Upon my return, a friend who had been to the top of the trail in the French Valley just a week after our attempt, told me that it was the most beautiful and brutal day he’d ever spent on a hike. They were buffeted by strong winds, sleet, and driving rain at times. Proof-positive that Patagonia offers what it wants to, and that can be very different from week-to-week.
After returning to camp, satisfied with our shortened jaunt of Valle Frances, we packed and head towards our home for the next two nights at Refugio Paine Grande. By camping there on the third day we could leave our tent in place and day-hike to Glacier Grey on the fourth day. The hike to Paine Grande was short by comparison to most of the trail-days we had completed on the trip, but not without interest. We saw more of fire’s devastation and nature’s rapid move to cover up the ground beneath the burnt trees. Skeletal forest gave way to rugged, wind-swept hills along the Lago Pehoe as we neared camp.
Paine Grande’s campsite is an exposed grassy field next to the refugio with scenic views of both the Cuernos and Lago Pehoe. This being a shortened day, we arrived early and spent significant time lounging around in our tent with food and drink bought in the refuge’s general store. It was a warm afternoon and the grassy campsite was the perfect place to soak it in.
At dinner, we decided to splurge on the prepared meal at the refugio. Don’t waste your pesos! Despite spending the equivalent of more than $20 USD, we felt the snack food in the general store made for the better meal, by far. As night set in, the temperature dropped significantly, but the stars were out and the mountains still visible, somehow making amends for the terrible food.
Day 4: Paine Grande to Glacier Grey Out-and-Back
We awoke just before twilight on the fourth day, with Reuben spotting a magical moment of brilliant light rising over Lake Pehoe. A sprinkle of rain fell again as we made our way to the cover of a refugio overhang near the edge of the water, and we sat there as Patagonia unfurled its full beauty to us, the only ones awake to see it. The rising sun painted the sky first and then rose against the side of the mighty Cuernos. It was one of those moments that was destined to linger in the mind long after the trip was ended.
After that powerful moment, we headed back to the tent for some more rest. The hike for the day was a fairly ambitious 14 miles roundtrip to the foot of Glacier Grey, a hulking mass of blue and white ice guarding the trail to Paso Gardner and the less traveled circuit route.
Well rested, and buoyed by another magnificent experience, we set out to reach the glacier, passing many a pack-hauling hiker as we walked free of the pack-weight to which we had become accustomed. After nearly a week of hiking with 30-pound packs, our bodies had adapted so well to the load that hiking without it almost seemed like cheating.
The hike led us along the edge of Lago Grey, occasionally meandering inland a bit and gradually uphill. At one point, we came upon a brilliant display of yellow wildflowers, and the urge to plop down amidst them was almost uncontrollable. Instead, we spent a while taking photographs and left them untouched for the rest to see.
Soon after, we reached the first mirador from which to glimpse the mighty glacier. The downside to these designated viewpoints is that everyone else is there, too. It’s difficult enough to get a good photo with a bright, white mass and grey clouds as the backdrop without the challenge of avoiding others trying to do the same. Often-times there are equally good viewpoints just past the one that has a sign next to it, but one can never be sure they will be there, so stop we must!
When we reached Refugio Grey, we continued much farther than we had expected to in order to reach a spot at water-level, where we could admire an otherworldly, blue iceberg in close proximity to the shoreline. Had we brought our blenders this spot surely would have made for excellent margaritas, but we had to settle for gnawing on a bit of ice that had previously been floating in the cold, glacial waters. It was similar to that classic moment on the podium at sporting events where the winner playfully chomps down on his medal.
Heading back to Paine Grande, I decided to listen to a book on Audible, which did not go over well with my hiking companion, who apparently had not had enough of me after six days in a row of Patagonian trails. Reuben’s pace quickened to as fierce a power-walk as can be accomplished. For nearly an hour-and-a-half we marched up and down the tricky trail at nearly four miles-per-hour. When my friend gets into the right rhythm on a hike, he devours the terrain and I wasn’t about to let him drop me. We passed dozens of other hikers like they were standing still. By the time we ran into some of our first-day companions and slowed our roll, we had thoroughly crushed the trail in a moment I now think of as the most capable I have ever felt on a trail. We had hit our stride and struck it well (so well, in fact, that there are no photos to document it).
When we returned, it started to rain. After the adventures of the day, we were more than content to spend some time inside our humble abode, sipping boxed wine and reading, listening to the gentle pitter-patter of the raindrops against the tent’s rainfly.
Additional photos in chronological order:
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